Wine & Food

Sydney has long had its way with its glorious harbour. The Manly Ferry, that Bridge, a House of sorts, multi-million dollar mansions and coveted restaurants command ravishing views while water taxis frantically dash about all of it and provide an intimate close up of Sydney’s pout.

Hobart has quite a harbour itself but to outsiders the Tasmanian capital’s watery exploits are often linked back to Sydney − the annual Sydney Hobart yacht race is one of sailing’s classics and for a few days to the end of December the finish line on the River Derwent is the focus of spectators, and crews on some of the finest maxi-yachts in the world.

For Hobartians though the river gives life to their city 365 days a year and the waterfront is a safe anchor for fishing boats with crayfish pots stacked by gunnels, the fabulously ostentatious rigs of abalone divers who bank the earnings of small countries every year, motor yachts, designer catamarans, commuter ferries, and luxurious charter boats. Of the hundreds of craft only one is a water taxi.

Rod Howard only recently bought his taxi (no cigar for guessing from where) and while it is odder than evolution conjuring the platypus that Australia’s southern capital never had a water taxi until 2006, the former ferry skipper is making up for lost time. “I’m here seven days a week,” says Howard who provides a popular service between the Eastern Shore and the city − cutting across the river is cheaper than taking a cab with wheels − but the man is flexible and will travel anywhere on the Derwent.

From the Henry Jones Art Hotel, one of Tasmania’s best addresses, it’s just a stroll to lively T42, a bar so close to the water you could fish and martini at the same time. Yet we satisfy ourselves by padding the singular path to intemperance and wait for our taxi.

The lights of breathless night time Hobart shimmer in the vodka and vermouth as well as the river. In nearby Battery Point, St George’s Church and its glorious, softly lit, turret is one of the city’s evening landmarks. Out on the river a boat, barely lit, sneaks to somewhere. This free show is almost as conducive to romance as the room at the Henry Jones.

Howard’s taxi cruises into Watermans Dock and is our cue to at least put an end to the lights in the glass. Out on the Derwent, past where the cruise ships moor, we bear south coasting along the waterfront homes of Battery Point a few of which are so large and occupy such prime water frontage they are doubtless owned by abalone divers.

There are more yachts in the Sandy Bay marina and at Wrest Point, Howard pulls into dock alongside Helsal IV, a beautiful Sydney Hobart racer that moonlights in the travel game and takes passengers on yacht racing tours. Howard’s 10-minute trip, with commentary, is better value than the vodka. “Where else do you get a $7 harbour tour?” asks the skipper.      

The Point Revolving Restaurant is on the 17th floor of the Wrest Point tower. The dedicated lift opens into the restaurant and as we sit at a table by the window we start circling. It’ll take 77 minutes to return to the point where we first sat down though there is no need to mark the window as the restaurant manager assures his stopwatch is accurate.

The Point has a special-occasion status in Hobart and for visitors who like their food garnished with towering views this is the only place to eat in the city. The Point also provides quite the pedestal for chef William Espie’s modern Australian food.

The entrée of cured ocean trout ($21) just beats the Barilla Bay oysters into the order book. The meaty, salty fish is as tender as sashimi and has a coriander salad for company. The pinot gris we handbag with the starter compliments both the greens and the sea.

The prawn flambé (the table-side fire show is optional) is a popular main but I go with the venison from Launceston way and it’s served as fetching medallions rather than slivers. But it is over the deer I stumble across the downside of being up. As diners are also paying for the ripping views it is hard not to savour them as much as the food.

All through dinner Hobart goes about its unhurried way far below. The expansive bridge over the Derwent is our reference but the cameo that played at T42 has become a full stage production. On the Eastern shore the lights make an almost mysterious imposition on the night, as though settlement is too frightened to expand beyond the shoreline of the river, while around Sandy Bay the show gambols over steep hills and Christmas trees the night. 

Thankfully the atmosphere in the restaurant is as unhurried as the intermittent traffic moving along Sandy Bay Road and there is plenty of time to linger over dessert, and the accompanying bottle of botrytis inspired sweetness. Fabulously, neither the traffic nor intemperance is much concern as skipper Howard is working until 11pm. 

More Information

For the water taxi: phone Rod Howard: 0407 036 268. Howard usually operates late on weekends only.

For bookings at The Point Revolving Restaurant: 03 6221 1700 or www.wrestpoint.com.au

The Point hosts the annual Penfolds Grange Premium Release Dinner on May 18 

For more information on Tasmania: www.discovertasmania.com

The information was correct when published in 2008. Prices and information may have changed.